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Much hype and excitement has accompanied the renovations of the old port. Once an area of derelict warehouses and rusting quays cut off from the rest of the city by a series of hideous thoroughfares and overpasses, it is now a lively pedestrian area where people can stroll, take in the almost year-round sun, and visit shops, restaurants, theatres and several excellent museums. “The sea has been returned to the Genoese” city officials proudly proclaimed when it was opened for the Columbus anniversary celebrations in 1992.
The only problem is that there’s not much sea to be seen. As with numerous other port renewal projects, renovation has meant “building up” and “filling in” until the port appears little more than a cluttered bathtub or aquatic amusement park. The only real hint of the sea are the moored boats, salt air, and seagulls. It’s still necessary to go a little ways out of the city, towards Boccadasse, to hear the waves crashing, feel the salt spray and look out over the vast expanse of water.
Having said this, there’s no denying that the old port area has given Genoa a new lease on life. It is one of the few spots in the city centre where you can get away from the crowded streets and noise of traffic to sit and relax. Looking inland, there’s an amazing view of the pastel-coloured city as it climbs up the surrounding hillsides. The Aquarium is truly fantastic with close to 200 tanks reproducing natural salt and fresh-water environments from around the world. The unique Antarctic Museum provides fascinating insight into the little-known ecosystems of the South Pole, and the Sea and Navigation Pavilion is a must for enthusiasts, featuring a permanent exhibition of mercantile marine, from galleys to transatlantic steamers, and a new room dedicated to the trips of Christopher Colombus. In the evening, the old port is an ideal place for a leisurely stroll and gelato, watching the sky turn from orange to pink to red as the sun
sets.
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enovagando 
